Raymond Weil Maestro
A movement or calibre is the inner heart of the watch, the internal mechanism or engine which acts as a powerhouse for the watch. There are many different types of movement, but they essentially fall into two categories: Mechanical or Quartz.
There are two types of mechanical movement: Automatic and Hand-Wound. Mechanical movements are considered very desirable in fine watchmaking due to the skill required to make them, building on centuries of craftsmanship and assembled my master watchmakers.Many luxury watch brands now develop their own in-house calibres, which are called in-house movements. This shows the skill and quality of a particular watch manufacturer.
Automatic is used to describe a self-winding mechanical watch and is the most popular mechanical movement used by watchmakers. An automatic watch is wound by the movement of the wrist and as long as you wear the watch regularly, it will rarely need to be manually wound.An automatic watch uses energy from the mainspring to power the watch, rather than a battery. This energy is created by a rotor which turns in response to the wearer’s movement.
Hand-wound is used to describe a hand-wound mechanical movement and is the oldest type of watch movement on the market.A hand-wound movement needs to be manually wound in order to create energy in the watch’s mainspring to power the watch. This is done by turning the crown multiple times and the mainspring will then slowly release energy.Winding intervals for a manual or hand-wound watch will depend on the capacity of the power reserve, which could be from 24 hours to a week or so.
Quartz is used to describe a battery powered watch movement and is an electrical watch mechanism celebrated for its accuracy and minimal maintenance required, apart from changing the battery.A battery sends an electrical current via a small quartz crystal, electrifying the crystal to make small vibrations which keeps the movement oscillating and in turn powers the watch.
The Bezel is a ring surrounding the front a watch which secures the crystal to the case. Bezels are made of hard wearing materials such as steel, gold, rubber or ceramic. Some bezels rotate to perform functions essential for diving or aviation. (See below).
Bi-Directional Rotating Bezel
A bezel that can be rotated either clockwise or anticlockwise. It can be used for making time calculations, showing the time in a second time zone, measuring dive times or even using your watch as a compass.
Uni-Directional Rotating Bezel
This is a bezel that only turns in one direction. It was first used to measure time elapsed on diving missions. The bezel is prevented from turning the other way in order to stop the wearer accidentally knocking the bezel and thinking they have more time than they do. On many diving watches the first quarter of the bezel is highlighted in a different colour, as divers would use it to measure their last 15 minutes of air before re-surfacing.
Internally Rotating Bezel
A bezel that is set within the case and crystal and operated by a crown on the outside of the watch. This is designed to be easy to adjust and more accurate than an external bezel. It also protects the bezel from being accidentally adjusted if the watch is knocked against something.
Sapphire Crystal Glass
Push-button Deployment Clasp
Fold-over Push Button
An open or transparent caseback features on the reverse of a watch and allows the wearer to see intricate details of the mechanism. It is a chance for the watch brand to show off the movement, which can often be decorated for added effect. A transparent caseback can be fully open, have a skeletonised window or cut-out shape.